“More Irrelevancies of a Banal and Rambling Nature” – Laos June 2001

Whilst I was living and working in Laos I would note various anecdotes and collate them in emails which were then periodically sent out to family and friends. Below is one such missive.

Sunday 3 June 2001
Due to unprecedented public demand (read: complaints about lack of communication) I have decided to take some time out from the hammock and tap out a few “More Irrelevancies of a Banal and Rambling Nature”.

I should however point out that I do so at great risk to my personal safety i.e. last time I got into trouble with my mother. Not for any particular elements of the content of my missive but for the fact that there was content which was in marked contrast to my normal paltry responses to queries via the phone as to what has been happening in my life.

As some of you will be aware I have just returned from 3 weeks in Australia. First up an apology to all those whom I didn’t contact (either by phone or in person) – now we are all sensible mature people so I wont try to worm my way out of this social dilemma by contriving pitiful excuses.

Actually the trip was undertaken at relatively short notice the reason being that my father had being diagnosed and operated on for a large (5cm) tumour on the pancreas. Although he didn’t know that he had it, this tumour had been giving him the “shits”, literally, for the last 1-2 years. Fortunately, the type of tumor, although cancerous, was an extremely rare type that was non-aggressive and therefore relatively easily and comprehensively dealt with by surgery. Of course this is all stated in the benefit of hindsight and there was a degree of apprehensiveness prior to the operation e.g. One reputable medical website quoted figures of a treatable conditions of only 20% and an median life expectancy from the time of diagnosis of 6 months.

Anyway so I headed off to Brisbane where my father was being treated. He had been operated on (removal of a large part of his pancreas) two weeks prior to my arrival and was recovering at such a rate that he was able to meet me at the airport – if I had arrive much later I would not have been able to play any significant role as the dutiful son returning to buoy the spirits of the ill father! In fact Dad’s recovering has been such that he was able to drive back to Darwin, accompanied by my mother, in late May – a few weeks ahead of schedule. Being fit (he normally runs three times a week), having a positive attitude, a high pain threshold (which derives from supporting Collingwood for many years) and receiving a lot of moral support certainly helped.

Most of my time (two weeks) in Brisbane was spent at my brother’s house, where Mum and Dad were also staying, and doing the odd excursion, reading, having the occasional chat etc.

Just a few days prior to my planned return to Laos, arrangements were made for me to stay on in Australia for a little while longer so that I could go to Canberra for work related reasons. It was great to catch up with a number of colleagues and friends (though time did not allow for all to be covered).

Sunday 17 June
The pleasing thing for Mum and Dad returning to Darwin ahead of schedule was that Dad was able to attend the ordination of my mother as a priest (Anglican church) at the ripe old age of 66. The ordination took place on 11 June and was reportedly a fantastic event.

It’s now the rainy season which means that whilst it is more humid there are also periods where coolness prevails eg if it is raining at night then I am able to sleep with no fan (and certainly without the turbo-charged air conditioner). I am enjoying the variety of the wet season.

I now am fully gadgeted up, kitchenwise, including microwave. Back in March I undertook a big shopping expedition to Thailand. There is a place called Udon Thani which is about 55 KM the other side of the border. Takes between 1.5 and 2 hours from Vientiane to get there. All up it was a full 12 hour day spent purchasing supplies and equipment to outfit the house. I was accompanied by my housekeeper and the Office Manager (CARE Laos) – they took great delight in spending my money.

One of the challenges in a new place is learning the road “rules” etc. A recent episode involving my boss, was instructive in this regard. My boss was riding home one night on a motorbike when he was run into by another, much faster, motorbike. Both my boss and the other rider were okay. As the collision took place on a reasonably busy road, My boss decided, for safety sake to move his bike off to the side of the road – this however contravened the road rules which require vehicles involved in an accident to remain in situ. Whilst waiting for the police, my boss suggested that the other bike be moved as well but the other rider did not want to. Not long after a speeding truck came through and collected the aforesaid motor bike causing some damage to both vehicles. So now three parties were involved. All vehicles were impounded for a few weeks whilst the police conducted their investigation. The result was that my boss was fined for moving his bike and also because he had admitted to having had a drink prior to the accident (apparently there is a 0.00 blood alcohol regulation – the other two parties were careful not to make any such admission). The driver of the truck was fined for speeding and the other motorbike rider (who had caused the accident in the first place) was effectively fined as he had to pay most of the costs for the repairs of his bike (there was only minor damage to my boss’s bike).

The CARE Office (a converted two storey house) has one toilet inside downstairs and at the back of the office, one toilet upstairs but accessible directly from outside via a verandah. There is also a third toilet used by the office guards however at one point the guards toilet became unserviceable. Therefore the guards needed to use the upstairs toilet but the problem was that the verandah by which the toilet was accessed was often used by groups of staff for meetings and the guards were therefore too shy to use the toilet. Senior management were made aware of this problem not directly but by way of the fact that one day the bamboo awning that shielded the verandah had been moved (to the upstairs verandah on the front of the house). When queries were made as to why the awning had been moved the applied logic, of the Office Manager, that became apparent was that removing the awning would make the rear verandah less appealing as a place to meet and people were prefer then to meet on the front verandah), With less meetings being held on the rear verandah the guards would have, to their mind, unfettered access to the upstairs toilet! Whilst the tactical logic was to be admired a return to the previous status quo was requested i.e. the awning reinstalled.

There have been three lots of visitors stay over the period March – May which has been great. Kim Murray, Danny MacAvoy (& Jo) and Vic Sukacz. All either gave or endorsed the **** .5 rating. I think the people who had the best time were Danny and Jo, who were cycling around parts of Laos, and arrived in Vientiane rather hot and tired one Saturday afternoon. It had been arranged for them to meet up with Peter (Office Manager) who showed them to my house which they enjoyed the facilities of for the next three days – in my absence!

I was away at the time (early April) on a trip with one of CARE Australia’s Board members and her husband (yes they paid for all the expenses involved). Although they are in their seventies the travel itinerary was reasonably demanding. They had one night in Vientiane and then we flew up to Luang Prabang for two nights to see one of our HIV/AIDS/STDs projects (plus take in some of the sites of the area which is a World Heritage listed site). Then it was a three hour ride up the Mekong river by jet boat (not the normal means of river transport for CARE staff) with a break to visit some caves and another for a swim (my first time to swim in the Mekong). Once we docked at our riverside destination it was another 1.5 hours drive to the District headquarters (Hongsa) where we stayed for two nights visiting an agriculture project. Six hours mountainous road travel, including a couple of breaks to visit project activities, got us to Sayaboury by Tuesday afternoon. We were then able to rest up prior to the flight back to Vientiane the next day for some Pii Mai (Laos New Year) drinks with the staff.

Pii Mai is a whole story in itself which may have to await another missive. as will the change in my work context (still with CARE still in Laos but different). And I haven’t even mentioned weddings or the trip to Cambodia or being sick or ….

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